These are miscellaneous notes I've taken while reading climbing related books.
- The Rock Warrior's Way
- Self-Coached Climber
- Training for Climbing
- 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes
Developing good footwork is an attribute that you must make happen via constant foot focus and practice.
Proper alignment of your center of gravity directly over a foothold.
On slab this means your hips are out from the wall and over your feet. With vertical this means keeping your body position in to the wall and straight, while standing on your feet as much as possible.
Arms play a secondary role in climbing. Grip each handhold with the minimum force required, using the arms mainly for balance and not as a primary source of locomotion, and pushing with the feet in unison with modest arm pulls.
Focus on light touch that yields soft forearms.
Decide how much you need to pull down on a hold, it is imperative that you push with your feet and let the leg muscles carry the load. Think of your arms as points of contact that prevent you from falling backward off the wall.
Find a vertical wall, with good holds and 10ft of travel. Overhanging wall for harder difficulty.
Climb onto wall and place a hand behind your back. Begin traversing with small, quick lunges from one handhold to the next. Optimal technique is to draw in your body toward the wall and lunge to the next handhold, doing so all in one smooth motion.
Advance your feet onto new footholds as needed to keep your center of gravity over your feet and maintain balance. Climb both ways for three sets.
Find a 10-25% degree overhang wall.
Climb onto the wall and balance your weight evenly on two footholds. Grip the higher of the two handholds with one hand, place the other hand behind your back. Now drop down, catch the lower handhold, and quickly lunge back up to the higher starting hold.
Continue lunging both arms for three sets.